Cycling the Danube from the Danube Spring, Germany to Budapest, Hungary Part I

For the past two weeks, Lorenz and I have been cycling down the Danube River in Germany (yes the Danube does go through Austria, but it starts in Germany). In fact, it has taken us 700 kilometers of pedaling just to get to Austria from the Danube’s start as a spring in a quaint town not far from France called Donauesching.

Of course, as with all Eber adventures, this one cannot just be ‘normal’. We are pedaling during Covid-19 (now Covid 2021 since the virus is still alive and well and still affecting everyone–vaccinated or not). P.S. We are vaccinated—a very important fact since we have to show our vaccination card at every hotel, every museum, and even to eat indoors at a restaurant or cafe. Of course, we have to wear a mask to go indoors anywhere. And just to make sure social activity is completely controlled, every time we sit down at even a tiny bakery, we have to fill out a coronavirus contact form– name, phone number and address–so they can find us if someone who ate near us tests positive for Covid.

Anyway, now that I have introduced you to the rules of pedaling during Covid-19/21 in

Germany, we can begin with the adventures, which began—well of course—before we started pedaling. The trip began with a very lovely, though sad memorial service for Lorenz’s mom in the Black Forest accompanied by the playing of traditional German hunting horns. (Mutti died a year ago, but due to our favorite international pandemic, we were not allowed to visit Germany until July of 2021).  The next day, Lorenz and I dropped off our rental car at Willingen Schenigen, sixty miles away in another part of the Black Forest, unpacked and assembled our bikes and panniers and pedaled off to the start of the Danube in Donauesching on a lush 3000 foot high mountain plain below the Alps.

Since then it has been all downhill….well in theory, as long as you pedal right next to the Danube. The problem is, of course, that as soon as you leave the course of the river, you run into a few very tall hills. Luckily much of the pedaling is along dikes along the river which are nice and flat, but unpaved. Not a problem in sunny weather, but pretty nasty

and muddy in rain. And as those of you who have been following us on Fb and Instagram know, we’ve had lots of rain. In fact ten days straight. BTW, there is a reason for all these dikes along the river. We’ve been watching the Danube grow, both wider and higher as we’ve pedaled steadily towards Austria over the last two weeks. Apparently, the Danube likes to overflow its river banks. We have a front row seat on our bikes to watch any floods should they occur!

But who’s complaining? Every time it starts pouring, it’s just another excuse to dash into a wonderful bakery, show our immunization cards, fill out another Covid form and sit down to a delicious German Kaffee and Kuchen.

Seriously, though, we are having a great time despite the rain and Covid. The Danube is a perfect, easy cycling tour. First, they speak German here—which is great since we do too (most people also speak English, for those of you reading this and dreaming of your own Danube trip)! Second, they serve German food here, which Lorenz is specializing in as a native German. Obviously we are trying out all of his favorite wursts and cheeses and delicious German breads (and yes, Kaffee and Kuchen).

Finally and most importantly, this area has been settled for over 50,000 years. As a result, there are beautiful historic towns and fascinating places to visit every five to ten miles. We visited a UNESCO heritage cave that has remains from Neandertal times. Lining the river are Roman forts, baths, houses and temples ( the Danube once served as the northern edge of the Roman empire). Over the centuries, the Danube has been a major transportation route, so it is dotted with dozens of beautiful historic towns dating from the Middle Ages. And in case you ever get bored, it seems every hillside overlooking the Danube has a ruined castle, an amazing Schloss or some impressive cathedral.

The Danube also passes through Bavaria, which is staunchly Catholic. Very staunchly. For the past four hundred kilometers, the bike path has been dotted with lovely little shrines to Mary and Jesus and various saints. Monasteries are alive and well here and their bells ring over the hills all day. Every major city has an incredible cathedral. And, I think this is one of the few places left in the world, where everything (except for bars and cafes!) is closed on Sundays. Note to cyclists: buy a lot of food on Saturdays, or bike hungry.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We will be biking into Passau tomorrow, which is on the border of Austria. The sun is predicted to come out for a whole week! And Lorenz has been playing Strauss nonstop in anticipation of our finally reaching the classic Blue Danube on our way to Vienna. We’ll let you know how it goes in couple of weeks. Until then, Auf Wiedersehen.